Training (AI-generated illustration)
Chalk & Crag · 10 guides

Training

Finger strength, hangboarding and bouldering programs built on the same principles a strength and conditioning coach uses every day: progressive overload, smart recovery and long-term development.

AI-generated illustration.

Petr gripping a wooden hangboard mounted above a doorway (AI-generated illustration)
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Hangboard Program: The Complete Guide to Stronger Fingers

A practical hangboard program for climbers: who is ready, edge size, grip types, max hangs vs repeaters, frequency, and a sample 8-week plan with safety rules.

Intermediate9 min read
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Petr planning a bouldering training session in a gym (AI-generated illustration)
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Bouldering Training Program: Weekly Plans by Level

A bouldering training program for beginner, intermediate and advanced climbers: weekly plans, session templates, rest days, deloads and how to progress.

All levels9 min read
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Half-crimp max hang on a 20mm edge with added weight on a belt (AI-generated illustration)
Training7 min read

Finger Strength Benchmarks by Climbing Grade

Finger strength benchmarks for climbing by grade, from Lattice data and research: how to test a max hang on a 20mm edge and how far the numbers really go.

Lifting a wooden lift block with a weight plate for no-hang finger training (AI-generated illustration)
Training5 min read

How to Train Finger Strength Without a Hangboard

No hangboard? Build finger strength for climbing with limit bouldering, lift blocks, isometric pulls and finger rolls. What works and how to progress safely.

Petr bouldering indoors with precise footwork (AI-generated illustration)
Training10 min read

How to Get Better at Bouldering: 17 Tips That Work

17 ways to get better at bouldering faster: footwork, reading problems, projecting, strength and recovery. Practical tips for beginners and intermediates.

Petr chalking up below a steep boulder problem (AI-generated illustration)
Training6 min read

Bouldering Plateau: How to Break Through V4 (and V6)

Stuck at V4 or V6 for months? Find out what is really limiting you (technique, strength, power, head or recovery) and follow a 6–8 week plan to break through.

Dumbbell overhead press as antagonist training for climbers (AI-generated illustration)
Training5 min read

Antagonist Training for Climbing: 8 Exercises That Matter

Antagonist training for climbing: 8 push, shoulder and wrist exercises with sets and reps, plus a 20-minute routine you can do twice a week around climbing.

Assisted hang on a hangboard with feet on a box to take weight off (AI-generated illustration)
Training7 min read

Hangboard for Beginners: When to Start and Your First 6-Week Plan

Hangboard for beginners: readiness checks, a simple 6-week plan, good form, how often to train and the finger injury risks to respect before you start hanging.

Chalky fingers on a 20mm wooden hangboard edge with an interval timer (AI-generated illustration)
Training11 min read

Max Hangs vs Repeaters: Which Hangboard Protocol Wins?

Max hangs vs repeaters: what each hangboard protocol trains, what the research says, which suits bouldering or sport climbing, and how to combine them safely.

Shoulder warm-up with a resistance band at the crag (AI-generated illustration)
Training6 min read

Climbing Warm-Up: A 15-Minute Routine for the Gym and the Crag

A simple 15-minute climbing warm-up: general movement, shoulders and wrists, progressive finger loading and an easy climbing ramp, plus a crag version.